Component
Jumper Wires and Circuit Wire
Two different kinds of wire go into this car, and using the wrong one is the difference between a connection that survives being driven into a skirting board and one that does not.

Male-to-female jumper wires
These are the rainbow ribbon. They connect the modules to the Arduino, and the reason they are male-to-female and not either of the other two kinds is simply what is on each end:
- The Arduino's headers are sockets, so the Arduino end of the wire has to be a pin — the male end.
- The HC-06 and the L298N present pins, so that end of the wire has to be a socket — the female end.
Count what the car needs before you buy: six for the L298N logic pins (EnA, EnB and IN1 to IN4), four for the HC-06, three for the buzzer module, plus the two power leads. A standard 40-way ribbon covers it several times over, and you will pull the spares apart for the next project anyway.
Colour discipline saves you an evening
The ribbon comes as a rainbow because it is meant to be split up, not kept as a block. Two rules are enough:
- Red is always +, black is always ground. Never use them for anything else, on any part of the car.
- Keep one colour per module. If the HC-06's TX is green today it should be green when you rewire the car in a month.
The failure these actually cause
A crimped Dupont connector holds by friction, and a car shakes. The classic symptom is a car that works perfectly on the desk and then dies a metre into its first drive, or one whose Bluetooth drops every time it hits something. It is almost never the module.
Push every connector fully home — you should feel it click over the shoulder of the pin, not just perch on the tip. Then, once the car works, put a small dab of hot glue where the wires meet the HC-06 and the L298N headers. It peels off with a fingernail when you want to change something, and it ends the problem.
Circuit wire, for the screw terminals
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The L298N's motor and power connections are screw terminals, and a jumper wire's crimped end does not belong in one. Use plain solid-core wire, around 22 AWG — that carries the car's couple of amps with room to spare.
- Strip about 5 mm, no more. Bare copper sticking out past the terminal is a short waiting for a knock.
- Solid core, not stranded. Stranded wire frays as the screw turns and one stray strand reaches across to the next terminal.
- Tighten firmly, then tug the wire. If it moves, it was not tight.
- Red and black here too, for the battery leads.
Every part of the car
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